Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
