🔗 Share this article All Cook Ought to Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots. Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London. An Unexpected Recognition This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised. “I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Charm of Modesty The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner. A Namesake Dish: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality. It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside. It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste. Outranking the Giants Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations. Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price. A Philosophy of Hospitality The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner. “I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.” This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”. The Path of Dedication In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son. Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says. An Recognition for the Community The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.